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PRICE
GUIDE Below $30 = [$]. $30–$50 = [$$]. $50–$70 = [$$$]. Above $70 =
[$$$$].
ASIAN
Hoshi Sushi
[$$$$] On the ground floor of Granville Island’s Sandbar
Restaurant, in this cozy 18-seater corner with a view of the
courtyard, you can find menus to rival Tojo’s – at a relative
bargain price. Order the $60 omakase, roughly translated from the
Japanese as “I’m in your hands,” belly up to the bar, and watch the
chef at work. Hoshi himself fashions innovative takes on the
standard roll, standout fresh fish – the buri kama, or seared
yellow tail cheek, is superb – and the occasional flight into
fine-dining fantasy, like a perfectly composed nabe broth
surmounted by a single Ise ebi, or crayfish. Most of this isn’t on
the menu, and while Hoshi will make you impeccable
prawn-and-asparagus tempura or a real-crab California roll should
you insist, his genius comes out in the dishes he invents. 1535
Johnston St., Granville Island. 604-669-9030, vancouverdine.com/sandbar/menus_sushi.html
Imperial Chinese
Seafood Restaurant [$$] Dim sum here will run you twice what it
might in one of those humbler Chinatown joints. But in surroundings
like this, a high-ceilinged, spacious room off the lobby of the
splendid heritage Marine Building, the sticker shock barely stings.
Dim sum here comes on little trays, and the usual suspects are
joined by the occasional sophisticated standout. A
banana-and-shrimp fritter was so good my guest ordered a second
plate. Try a glass of the fabulous watermelon juice, thick and
densely pink. Sticky rice is a bit musty, and given the intended
tourist market, the servers could speak better English. But these
are quibbles. 355 Burrard St.. 604-688-8191,
imperialrest.com
Octopus’ Garden
[$$] Since 1993, innovative starters, sushi, and rolls have been
the mainstay at this Kitsilano favourite. Bluefin tuna and Kobe
beef are available upon request, and ask your server about the
omakase course that allows you to explore adventurous culinary
preparations by Chef Sado. The menu claims to offer “the finest
selection of sake in town.” 1995 Cornwall Ave. 604-734-8971, octopusgarden.ca
Pho
Hoang [$] Service here is indifferent and the glass-brick décor
exudes coolness rather than warmth, but the hot, scented broth of
the deep bowls of pho, or beef noodle soup, more than compensates.
3388 Main St. 604-874-0832.
Posh [$] At the
all-you-can-eat sukiyaki place on Broadway, reams of used dishes
are strewn across abandoned tables. In the lipstick-red booths
along the wall, Asian families continue to devour giant platters of
vegetables and sleek black boxes of sliced raw meat, all cooked up
in pans of bubbling broth on the gas hotplate at the centre of each
table. The $9.88 lunch at Posh is the bargain of the century, with
a truly intimidating list of 35 menu items including pork or beef
and introducing the timid Westerner to such delicacies as black
fungus, chayote, and konjac roll. For first-timers, the restaurant
offers a sampler platter heaped with produce. The beef is veined
with fat and reliably gorgeous, the pork uninteresting, but the
real surprises are in the textures of the vegetables, from squashy
winter melon to crunchy, violet-tinged lotus root. Posh’s décor,
and its name, work to invoke modern, sleek luxury. The reality is
considerably less sophisticated, but when gluttony looks this good,
and comes in this cheap, who is to argue? 1788 W. Broadway.
604-737-7674, 303-posh.com
Prima Taste
Restaurant [$$] Authentic Singapore food in a modern,
attractive room with an agreeable ambience that marries the best of
old and new Singapore. 570 Robson St. 604-685-7881, primataste.com
Zen
Sushi [$$] Zen incorporates the traditional roots of Japanese
cuisine with West Coast influences, using quality ingredients. 2232
Marine Dr., West Vancouver. 604-926-0667, zensushi.ca
BRITISH
The
Irish Heather, GastroPub [$$] Sean and Erin Heather mark 11
years as proprietors of this friendly, casual and comfy two-level
neighbourhood hangout. Bangers and Mash are top-rate with tasty
pork bangers from the British Butcher, fish and chips served with
gutsy coleslaw and malt vinegar, whiskey-soaked smoked salmon,
blueberry bread pudding and hearty cheese plates. 217 Carrall St.
604-688-9779, irishheather.com
CARIBBEAN
The
Reef [$] A cute tiki bar faces onto the dining room floor,
which is still sporting the comfy aquamarine booths from Frenchies,
now offset with bamboo walls and painted wooden tables. The food is
delicious, especially when topped with the house-made jerk and hot
sauces, available by the bottle for home-use as well. We try the
cheekily-named Jamaica Me Crabby Benny, a citrus-Hollandaise-capped
totem of poached eggs, Caribbean salt cod and crab cake on an
English muffin nestled on a pile of perfect crunchy ’browns, and
the hearty Island of Eggs, eggs on rice ’n’ peas with salsa and
cheese. Both dishes prove a sunny vacation for the palette. Try the
brunch on weekends and select breakfast items weekdays until 3 p.m.
1018 Commercial Dr. 604-568-5375, thereefrestaurant.com
FRENCH
Cassis Bistro
[$$] Cassis is that sort of Gallic café where you might find
Sartre. Add cool jazz and you’ve got a dead ringer for a side
street Paris café. Diners carry on the Franco-feel. Settled
side-by-side on a banquette, a couple whispers tête-à-tête. An
artsy-looking fellow in black turtleneck sips a tumbler of water
with lemon. A group of well-heeled ladies do lengthy lunch. Wines
by the glass are good, many fewer than 10 bucks. The salad Niçoise
is a jumble of organic greens, black olives, tender beans,
pepper-crusted fresh tuna and a golden-yolk egg, sliced and cooked
perfectly. Rustic fare – Coq au Vin, Daube de Boeuf, grilled
flatiron steak. All in all, Cassis delivers a decent plate and a
great buzz. And it’s the ideal spot for brushing up on Colette. 420
W. Pender St. 604-605-0420, cassisvancouver.com
Chez
Michel [$$$] A warm and casual French ambience. Their
reputation for freshness and quality has been developed through
years of devotion to customer satisfaction. A diversified menu is
complemented by carefully selected wines from countries throughout
the world. 1373 Marine Dr., West Vancouver in Ambleside.
604-926-4913, chezmichelvancouver.com
Elixir [$$$] A
cozy Parisian bistro ambience – white tablecloths, tiled floors and
Toulouse-Lautrec prints – with a sophisticated menu that matches a
clientele of Yaletown urbanites, celebrities, and film industry
types. Weekday breakfasts are often bustling. The Poached Eggs
Catalan is inventive and terrifically flavourful. 350 Davie St.
(Opus Hotel) 604-642-0557, elixirvancouver.ca
Le
Gavroche Restaurant [$$$$] A good choice for intimate dining.
Established in 1979, Le Gavroche is set in a gently refurbished
two-storey Victorian house with fireplace, an upstairs terrace and
a sweeping view of Vancouver’s Coast Mountains and harbour. 1616
Alberni St. 604-685-3924, legavroche.com
Jules [$$] A
handsome room with one exposed brick wall and bare wood tables. The
salade de chèvre, with goat’s cheese melted onto dressed beets, and
steak frites are fine. 216 Abbott St. 604-669-0033, julesbistro.ca
La
Vallée [$$$] An alluring intimate dining rendezvous and getaway
treasure, ideal for a quiet gathering or romantic dinner for two.
The Braised Prime Beef Short Rib, served with a matignon of
vegetables, is a single shank, from which the flesh softly unfolds
and falls off at the touch of a fork. The Tangle of Organic
Mesculin Green Salad is a delicate mix of mild, bitter, tart, and
peppery flavours from a variety of small, tender leafy greens and
lettuces with a touch of house balsamic vinaigrette. Service is
congenial, courteous, and attentive. The ambiance could be enhanced
by mellow jazz standards, rather than the house-type background
music, setting the mood for two people to fall in love. Executive
Hotel Vintage Park, 1379 Howe St. 604-696-6980, lavalleerestaurant.com
LATIN
La
Bodega [$$] Since 1971, this downtown staple has been famous
for their traditional Spanish tapas, whether for cozy dinners for
two or boisterous parties of 10. Daily specials are worth checking
out, but old favourites include Calamares, a bowl of perfectly
crunchy fried baby squid, and Mejillones Frescos, tasty mussels in
a light, peppery wine sauce. The service is friendly and casual,
and the quaint checked-tablecloth ambiance suggests that there
might be snuggling stray dogs canoodling over spaghetti and
meatballs out back. 1277 Howe St. 604-684-8814/5, labodegavancouver.com
Century Restaurant
& Bar [$$$$] Located in the Century House heritage
building, built as a bank in 1911, the turn-of-the-century design
inspired the Latin theme of barrel-vaulted ceilings, original
Victorian chandeliers and a marble staircase. Chef Remi DuBois’
refined, modern approach to Latin cuisine results in Dungeness crab
“burritos,” various paellas, fresh seafood and grilled and roasted
meats. The bold flavours of these dishes are complemented by an
almost all-Latin wine list. 432 Richards St. 604-633-2700, centuryhouse.ca
Havana [$$]
This funky restaurant transports you to the country Hemingway fell
in love with. The décor illustrates the contrast between the Cuban
capitol’s affluent past and the faded glory and decaying
architecture of today. Distressed, burnt-orange and gold-speckled
walls splashed with graffiti and black and white photos of Havana
in its heyday give its namesake a worn yet comfortable feel. From
its signature savoury, black bean soup to the Carne Havana, a
grilled sirloin with Dominican Chimichurri and salsa verde, Chef
Trevor Booth’s menu sent my taste buds into overdrive. 1212
Commercial St. 604-253-9119, havanarestaurant.ca
Me
& Julio [$] Brunch dishes start off traditional, with hints
of Mexico popping up in the details, such as pickled Poblano
peppers with the Huevos Revueltos or the Pan Tostado à la Francesca
(French toast), banana-flambé drizzled with coconut syrup alongside
fresh fruit. The basics are solid as well, with fresh jams and
delicious chili red nugget potatoes. What lacks in quantity is made
up for with fresh ingredients and Southern-inspired sides like
cornbread with the Huevos Benedictos (eggs benny). Still finding
its rhythm in terms of service, but, all in all, its new Tropical
Brunch is a cheerful addition to the Drive’s breakfast roster. 2095
Commercial Dr. 604-696-9997, meandjulio.ca
Zocalo [$]
Contemporary Mexican fare in an eclectic, funky room. Try the
huevos con chilaquiles or huevos divorciados. There
is obvious care in these dishes evidenced by homemade tortillas,
cornbread and chorizo. Closed Mondays. 2115 Main St. 604-677-3521,
zocalorestaurant.ca
MEDITERRANEAN
Al
Porto Ristorante [$$$] Beautiful surroundings and a warm
welcome await those who cross through the iron-gated doorway.
Spacious but filled with cozy retreats to enjoy the expertly
executed cooking, cuisine that literally defines the flavours and
culture of Italy. 321 Water St. 604-683-8376, alporto.ca
Araxi [$$$$] A
culinary cornerstone in the heart of Whistler Village, Araxi holds
an international reputation for excellence in food, wine and
hospitality. Extensive menus by Executive Chef James Walt celebrate
homegrown ingredients from the nearby Pemberton Valley Farms in
addition to showcasing fresh seafood from the Pacific Ocean. 4222
Village Square, Whistler. 604-932-4540, araxi.com
Bay
Moorings [$$] With an all-season heated patio for pizza, Greek,
Italian. 6330 Bay St., West Vancouver at Horseshoe Bay.
604-921-8184, baymooringsrestaurant.com
Beecher Street
Café [$$] Chic dining in the casual atmosphere of a quaintly
elegant 1930s heritage home. The signature Seafood Penne – fresh
fish, prawns, scallops, and baby shrimps in a lemon-pepper dill
cream sauce is a hit, as is the succulent Cajun Seared Tuna
appetizer. Pasta and meat dishes, as well. 12302 Beecher St.,
Crescent Beach. 604-538-1965, beecherstreetcafe.com
La
Buca [$$] The kitchen shines with Italian flavour at this
32-seat joint that jumps. Osso bucco with saffron risotto is
clearly the favourite “main.” Alone, tête-à-tête or with a group of
friends, you are made to feel welcome, comfortable and satiated –
without breaking the bank. Reservations recommended. 4025 MacDonald
St. 604-730-6988, labuca.ca
Cafe
Il Nido [$$$] Its motto remains: “Everyone leaves happy.”
Cuisine: pizza, Greek, Italian. 780 Thurlow St. 604-685-6436, cafeilnido.net
Capones Restaurant
& Live Jazz Club [$$] Live jazz seven nights a week, an
extensive wine list, tapas and signature entrées with a West Coast
flair, plus scrumptious pizza and pasta dishes. 1141 Hamilton St.
604-684-7900, caponesrestaurant.net
CinCin [$$$$] A
winding stone staircase leads the way from Robson Street to this
celebrated Vancouver dining room. Executive Chef Mark Perrier’s
ingredient-driven seasonal focus delights the palate with creative
dishes infused by Mediterranean influences. Outstanding desserts
demonstrate the Michelin star-studded pedigree of acclaimed Pastry
Chef Thierry Busset. 1154 Robson St. 604-688-7338, cincin.net
Don
Francesco [$$$] Warmly Italian, with floor-to-ceiling windows,
across from The Sutton Place Hotel. 850 Burrard St. 604-685-7770,
donfrancesco.ca
Il
Giardino [$$$$] The yellow-painted heritage house is a warren
of terra cotta-coloured rooms and passages, along with a lavish
interior courtyard. The mains here are massive. Osso buco, served
with risotto, and the grilled steak were equally accomplished.
Happy chatter drifted in from the courtyard. Customers came in,
were hailed by friends already at table, and sat down as if in
someone’s living room. The key to Il Giardino’s longevity: treat
’em like regulars, and give them lots to eat. 1382 Hornby St.
604-669-2422, hotelvilladelia.com/restaurant_ilgiardino.cfm
Gusto di
Quattro [$$$] Cozy and comfy dining, an anecdote to the chill
and damp of winter, with dishes like spaghetti and meatballs
(polpette), a perfect al dente tangle of noodles sauced modestly
with tomato and porcini goodness and three beefy polpette atop. A
well-groomed young staff pays attention to detail. 1 Lonsdale Ave.,
North Vancouver. 604-924-4444, quattrorestaurants.com
The
Italian Kitchen [$$$] It’s all about flash and splash, from the
luxe leather seating and 60-foot marble bar to the swish clientele.
Yummy-looking grilled vegetables, pastas, and veal scaloppini. Baby
spinach and watercress salad is crisp and fresh. A medley of
calamari rings in tomato and basil “fondue” is meltingly tender.
Chicken saltimbocca, however, fails to “jump in the mouth” as the
name of the dish suggests. Panzanella little resembles its fruity
olive oil-drenched Tuscan bread, tomato and cucumber cousin. My
wine is corked. Hardly a seamless experience, but still worth a
visit for drinks, starters and sandwiches, particularly if you’re
in the mood for an urban buzz. 1037 Alberni St. 604-687-2858, theitaliankitchen.ca
Marcello Pizzeria
& Ristorante [$$] In a lovely and lively Old-World
atmosphere, there’s no need to go to Naples to get a taste of
Italy. Lunch and romantic dinners of authentic pizza, pasta and
gnocchi from a wonderful open kitchen with a large wood-burning
oven. 1404 Commercial Dr. 604-215-7760.
La
Notte Ristorante Italiano [$$] Casual dining in a Tuscan
atmosphere. Pasta selections, pizza and veal specialties. 3307
Dunbar St. 604-222-4033, vancouverrestaurantguide.net/van_west/la_notte/index.htm
Quattro on
Fourth [$$$] In the heart of Kitsilano, with crimson-washed
walls, rustic wrought-iron chandeliers and candlelight casting a
glow on rich mahogany tables and a hand-painted floor. Italian
cuisine. 2611 W. 4th Ave. 604-734-4444, quattrorestaurants.com
Senova [$$$]
Warm tones in a 60-seat dining room, an open-kitchen bar and a
40-seat patio. European hospitality and southern Mediterranean
cuisine with a focus on the Iberian Peninsula – the food and wine
of Portugal, Spain and Southern France. 1864 W. 57th Ave.
604-266-8643, senova.ca
Villa del Lupo
[$$$] Situated in an ornate heritage mansion, the menu in this
discrete, private setting celebrates fresh, healthy and subtly
exquisite-tasting foods. 869 Hamilton St. 604-688-7436, villadellupo.com
SEAFOOD
Blue
Water Café & Raw Bar [$$$$] Known for innovative and
brilliantly executed West Coast seafood dishes prepared seasonally
and responsibly by Executive Chef Frank Pabst. Housed in a handsome
brick-and-beam heritage warehouse conversion in the heart of
Yaletown. 1095 Hamilton St. 604-688-8078, bluewatercafe.net
C
Restaurant [$$$$] A high ceiling gives the dining room an
atrium feel, and the spacious seawall patio is a promise of summer
to come. The main-course halibut was perfectly composed: crusty
fish, smooshed potatoes, chewy little morel morsels and a slick of
creamy, peach-hued sauce. A fine place to celebrate. 1600 Howe St.
604-681-1164, crestaurant.com
Dundarave Fish
Market [$$] This popular little neighbourhood eatery and retail
market hums along with seafood lovers packing the patio and
hunkering down in its cozy interior. There are plenty of fish
dishes, much of it local, and plenty of ways to cook it. Spices and
accents are mainly Asian-influenced. 2423 Marine Dr., West
Vancouver. 604-922-1155, dundaravefishmarket.inknoise.com/main
The
Fish House in Stanley Park [$$$] The moment you arrive, you
can’t help but relax. Look out onto English Bay or the gardens and
forests of Stanley Park. Enjoy exceptional seafood, the fresh
oyster bar and flaming prawns. Sample from a selection of
micro-brewed beers, an award-winning wine list and martinis. 8901
Stanley Park Dr. 604-681-7275, fishhousestanleypark.com
A
Kettle of Fish [$$$] From B.C. salmon to Nova Scotia lobster to
Mahi Mahi from the sunny waters of Hawaii, every seafood item on
the menu is guaranteed fresh and prepared with care. 900 Pacific
St. 604-682-6661, andersonrestaurants.com
STEAK
Morton’s, the
Steakhouse [$$$$] Specializes in classic, hearty fare, serving
generous portions of USDA prime aged beef, as well as fresh fish,
lobster, veal and chicken entrées. 750 W. Cordova St. 604-915-5105,
mortons.com
WEST
COAST
Altitudes
Bistro [$] Ten appetizers, a couple of soups, a few salads and
hot and cold sandwiches. Majestic scenery from the 120-seat patio
atop Grouse Mountain. 6400 Nancy Greene Way, North Vancouver.
604-998-4398, grousemountain.com/
grousemountain-dining-altitudes-bistro.cfm
Argo
Café [$] Some places that call themselves greasy spoons serve
you an anemic little pile of sliced deli turkey bolstered with –
ugh – cheese. The Argo’s version features real meat, correct
tomato-bacon-mayo proportions and a tousled heap of the best
thin-cut French fries in town. A side of gravy, thick and rich,
blows most places out of the water. Cream of mushroom soup features
sliced shitakes, this at $1.50 for the small. The Argo is tucked
away next to a labour exchange at the industrial bottom of Ontario
Street, so it’s not the sort of place people stumble on. An
efficient staff works hard to get you in and out in an hour. This
is the kind of café where construction workers wolf down giant
bowls of pasta in one minute aqua-upholstered booth, shopping
bag-laden suburbanites cheerfully nosh burgers in another. 1836
Ontario St. 604-876-3620.
Avenue Grill
[$] The house special Benedict with avocado and shrimp benefits
from free-range eggs and what my companion declares possibly the
best Hollandaise in Vancouver. I’m inclined to agree. At $12.95,
the plate isn’t a bargain but if you’re not eating like this every
week, the extra couple of dollars doesn’t seem excessive. Home
fries are spiced with sage and rosemary but suffer the fate of
their fellows most everywhere, being more mush than crunch. A
three-pancake order is cheerfully cut down to two for the
seven-year-old in attendance but is still costly at $8-plus. 2114
W. 41st Ave., 604-266-8183.
The
Beach House at Dundarave Pier [$$$] A beachfront landmark with
views from every table, where a large fireplace illuminates a
Japanese motif above and radiates a rosy glow. From a menu of
pasta, seafoods and meats, service is courteous, caring and
well-paced. Marine Dr. and 25th St., West Vancouver. 604-922-1414,
atthebeachhouse.com
Beyond Restaurant
& Lounge [$$$] Breakfast, lunch, tapas, dinner or
late-night libations in this chic multi-leveled 300-seater, with
each area and tier having its own persona. Hints of Asia and India
influence a menu of fish and fowl. The kitchen is farm-supplied
with a focus on organic and seasonal. 1015 Burrard St.
604-684-3474, beyondrestaurant.com
Blue
Canoe Waterfront Restaurant [$$$]Nothing beats the charm and
quaintness of Steveston’s waterfront. The historic village’s newest
eatery has an outdoor wrap-around patio to watch the fishing
vessels and tugs parading by and fishermen selling their wares. The
blue crab cakes are oven-baked and served with a refreshing fruit
salsa. For entrées, the pesto-rub chicken sandwich, grilled and
filled with garlic confit, poached apples, double cream Brie and
watercress greens, was served with hand-cut fries. The blackened
wild salmon burger, pan-seared and chockfull of sautéed cipollini
onions, caper-garlic aioli and house greens, is to die for.
140–3866 Bayview St., Richmond. 604-275-7811,
bluecanoerestaurant.com
Boneta [$$$]
Eclectic’s the word for both the airy décor and the tight
menu, displayed via PowerPoint above the open kitchen. While the
confit tuna salad was OK, the grilled mackerel and tomato chutney
was spot-on. 1 W. Cordova St. 604-684-1844, boneta.ca
Cactus Club
Café [$$$] Hip young servers without attitude and a classy,
unfussy décor. The new steel-and-glass CC at Bentall 5 downtown has
rolled out some of Rob Feenie’s new items, innovations that are
subtle but significant. Tuna tataki is about a dozen slices of
buttery sashimi-grade loin atop tangy Asian slaw in ponzu
vinaigrette. Garnished with juicy, peeled orange, diced avocado and
mango, and micro cilantro leaves, the starter is an absolute
showstopper. Tender, barely-battered fried calamari gets punched up
with crunchy julienne red pepper and jalapeño. Service, never
obsequious, is impeccable throughout. 558 Burrard St. 604-682-0933,
cactusclubcafe.com
Café
Deux Soleils [$] Generous portions and a limited kids’ menu
make this a popular breakfast spot. Soups, salads and veggie
entrées are still available through the evening. 2096 Commerical
Dr. 604-254-1195, cafedeuxsoleils.com
Café
Presto Panini [$] Folks who file into this hole-in-the-wall
Italian-style café opposite Vancouver Law Courts aren’t here for
the
décor but for what could be the best panini in town. Since
1988 Zoran Jungec has been cramming thick foccacia “tiles” with all
sorts of
fresh and yummy things: Italian sausage, prosciutto and
sun-dried tomatoes, eggplant and mozzarella, asparagus and Brie,
black bean and avocado. 859 Hornby St.
604-684-4445, prestopanini.ca
Chill Winston
Restaurant & Lounge [$$] Chef John Jesten’s freestyle food
from an island kitchen, cocktails at the bar, a spacious room and
large outside patio. 3 Alexander St. 604-288-9575, chillwinston.ca
Crave [$$] The
tables are comfortable, if a bit cramped. The food, however, is
fantastic, with a brunch menu ranging from an Egg White Frittata to
Pancakes and French Toast with a few inventive Bennies to round out
the mix. My Dungeness Crab Cake Benny had delicate Hollandaise
drizzled over free-range organic eggs that hit the mark
beautifully. My companion dined on the Turf and Eggs, whose AAA
steak served with potatoes and savoury sautéed mushrooms encroached
on entrée territory. Crave’s strongest asset is its ingredients.
The buttery potatoes that line the brunch dishes will melt in your
mouth. Service was friendly but slowish. 3941 Main St.
604-872-3663, craveonmain.ca
Delilah’s
Restaurant & Bar [$$$] The menu is prix fixe; small dinners
include an appetizer and entrée ($33) or a full four-course dinner
of soup, appy, entrée and dessert ($45). All dishes are available á
la carte, as well. There’s ample choice of fish and foul entrées,
though it’ll cost you $5 extra to sup on turf such as the Grilled
Beef Tenderloin or Dijon Roasted Lamb Loin. The food is mostly
continental with a few twists, such as the Cajun-spiced Catfish
Fillet served buttery soft with spot prawns. For all its opulence,
Delilah’s is about comfort and fun, with service that is warm and
personable. Comox at Denman. 604-687-3424, delilahs.ca
Diva
at the Met [$$$$] One of Vancouver’s premier dining locations,
a unique blend of international styles with a generous dash of
Pacific Northwest flavours. 645 Howe St. (Metropolitan Hotel)
604-602-7788, metropolitan.com/diva
The
Foundation [$] Vegetarian fare, including sandwiches and
desserts, is served on Formica-topped kitchen tables in this retro
diner. 2301 Main St. 604-708-0881.
Fuel [$$$] Chef
Robert Becham’s high-end regional fare utilizes cooking techniques
from around the world suited to each dish. Ninety-nine per cent of
everything is made in-house with fresh ingredients. 1944 W. 4th
Ave. 604-288-2700, fuelrestaurant.ca
GoldFish Pacific
Kitchen [$$] Glam surroundings, upscale food, free valet, free
wireless, and bargain prices in Yaletown? In a “Sex in the City”
sleek room, replete with black/white flowered Phillipe Starck
chairs, flat screen TV and tall brown suede banquettes, the deal
here is the Gold Plates, a different special Monday to Friday for
$10. Friday’s Seafood Fricassee is a generous bowl of halibut, cod,
salmon, bay scallops, shrimp and clams swimming in coconut milk (no
scrimping here) arrived, wafting Thai basil – more cioppino than
fricassee. Seafood stews tend to be overcooked, but not the case
here with each component perfectly poached. A bit pricey, the
inaccurately named Grilled Short Ribs were three tender morsels,
marinated and slow-baked in dense Hoisin chili sauce. 1118 Mainland
St. 604-689-8318, goldfishkitchen.com
Hart
House [$$$] An idyllic lakefront heritage estate to retreat
from the bustle and enjoy some of the best in food, wine and
service. 6664 Deer Lake Ave., Burnaby. 604-298-4278, harthouserestaurant.com
Japadog [$] The
best hotdog stand in the city. Bratwurst dressed with mayonnaise,
onions and slivers of nori is a favourite. Northwest corner,
Burrard and Smithe.
Lee’s Donuts
[$] The best donuts in Vancouver, possibly the world. The finest of
Lee’s flavours is the Chocolate Crunch, a perfectly composed combo
of sweet, starch and crunch – a ticket to bliss at just over a
dollar. Granville Island Market, 1689 Johnston St.
604-685-4021.
Lift [$$$] A
dynamic, urbane and sophisticated oceanfront restaurant/lounge on
the Coal Harbour seawall with views of Stanley Park and the North
Shore mountains. Progressive West Coast Canadian cuisine and a
contemporary wine list. 333 Menchions Mews. 604-689-5438, liftbarandgrill.ca
Little Nest [$]
This airy room is dotted with mid-century modern loungers and
mismatched tables and chairs. A pancetta scramble comes with tasty
cherry-tomato salsa and a flat Georgian baguette anchors the
satisfyingly meaty ham and cheese. Food here manages to be fresh,
sophisticated and child-friendly. 1716 Charles St. 604-251-9994, littlenest.ca
The
Mountain Club [$$] From the people who brought The Ocean Club
to West Vancouver, an almost identical menu with selections from
“earth” and “ocean.” Cool and elegant with a spacious patio.
Whistler Town Plaza, 40–4314 Main St., Whistler. 604-932-6009, themountainclub.ca
Narrow Lounge
[$] Descend a set of concrete stairs and walk into a bar/lounge
that you’d see anywhere in the hippest part of London or New York
City. Just like the funky surroundings, the menu offers up dishes
with names like The Hippie Parents, an organic green salad with the
most addictive maple-balsamic dressing, the Greasy Spoon Grilled
Cheese, a twist on a childhood favourite with lots of cheddar,
bacon, tomato, as well as The Guru – veggies in a coconut-tomato
curry with basmati rice. Close quarters encourage kibitzing with
your fellow diners and the full-length bar is a great spot for
artists to discuss their latest projects. Open daily, 5 p.m. to
midnight. 1898 Main St. 604-488-4740, narrowlounge.com
Nice Café [$] Instead of $12 plates drizzled with artisanal
syrup, the new Nice offers credible Bennys, vegetarian or non-, for
under $6. The extensive menu includes breakfast sandwiches,
old-school bacon-and-egg standards, and standout hash browns, with
many meals coming in shy of the $5 mark. The Nice doesn’t have much
in the way of décor, and service can be spotty, but hip Main
Streeters don’t seem to care. Every seat was full when we arrived
on that lazy Sunday, and everybody in the place, staff included,
seemed to be in their 20s. 154 E. 8th Ave. 604-874-4024.
Nu
Restaurant & Lounge [$$$] Stylish and casual fine dining in
a room of virtually 360 degrees of floor-to-ceiling glass, under
the south end of the Granville St. Bridge at False Creek. Small
plates, appetizers and specialties such as lamb cheeks, beef short
ribs, duck, halibut, salmon and steaks. Classic cocktails and an
innovative wine list. 1661 Granville St. 604-646-4668, whatisnu.com
O’Douls Restaurant
& Bar [$$$] Standard breakfast fare kicked up a notch via
excellent service. The breakfast tab for two ($50-plus with tip) is
as rich on the wallet as the silky citrus Hollandaise on the
Pacific smoked salmon Benny. Granted, two golden yokes, poached
perfectly soft, run over the wild fish and into hot wilted spinach.
An omelet, stuffed to near bursting with grilled veggies, goat
cheese and spinach, fares very well. The seemingly bottomless
carafe of coffee shows up often, always hot, always fresh. 1300
Robson St. 604-661-1400, odoulsrestaurant.com
The
Ocean Club [$$] West Vancouver-born and bred Chef Doug Scott
delivers the best of local ingredients, featuring handcrafted
cocktails, a Wine Spectator-awarded Pacific Northwest wine
list, and elegantly casual food in a sexy, hip environment. Open
Late. No Minors. 105–100 Park Royal, West Vancouver. 604-926-2326,
theoceanclub.ca
Parkside [$$$$]
Chef Andrey Durbach serves deeply-flavoured, lusty dishes he calls
“food for adults.” 1906 Haro St. 604-683-6912, parksiderestaurant.ca
Raincity Grill
[$$$] West Coast fare but with a twist: the 100-Mile Diet, and
centres their menu accordingly on game, fish and fowl as well as
organic vegetables all sourced from B.C., Alberta, Washington State
and Oregon. We nibble on a small but rich and delicious Parfait of
Fraser Valley Duck appetizer while waiting for our entrées, and we
can’t resist munching on the complimentary fresh Seared B.C. Spring
Salmon served with a trio of roast tomato, tomato cous cous and
tomato glaze. 1193 Denman St. 604-685-7337,
raincitygrill.com
Rugby Beach Club
Grille [$] Affordable prices in an “Upscale Sporty Casual”
ambience, with Monday Lobster Nights and Seafood Sundays. Try the
Roasted Pear Gorgonzola Salad. 950 W. Broadway. 604-736-2438, rugbybeachclub.com
Roundel Cafe
[$] Around since the ’60s, the current co-owner Dena Sananin
recently took over this modest café, cleaned up and refurbished. A
fine spot to while away an hour, savouring the quiet with an
upscale version of diner fare. 2645 E. Hastings St.
604-253-2522.
Saltaire [$$$]
An imaginative menu of seafood, tapas, pastas, chops and wood-fired
pizzas. A heated patio on the terrace for a panoramic view of
English Bay. 235–15th St., West Vancouver in Ambleside.
604-913-8439, saltaire.ca
Slocan
Restaurant [$] Green Naugahyde booths or wood-chaired dining
room for (mainly) good ol’ bacon (or sausage or ham), eggs
perfectly done, any way you want ’em, and spuds, mashed and hashed
crisp-golden brown. There are nine kinds of three-egg omelets,
including veggie-stuffed. Non-egg lovers can chow down on a fluffy
stack of pancakes or grilled mushrooms or tomatoes on toast. Want
dinner for breakfast? If the gravy is ready, order a hot beef,
burger or turkey sandwich or the liver and onions. Since 1974, and
from 5:30 a.m., this friendly, squeaky-clean Greek-run eatery has
placated the energetic early riser. 2715 E. Hastings St.
604-254-9114.
Slickety Jim’s Chat
’n’ Chew [$] Pretty good food from a great breakfast menu
divided into veggie and non-veggie items. The room itself is a riot
of dada bric-a-brac. 2513 Main St. 604-873-6760.
Steamworks
[$$$] Since 1995, a favourite of locals and visitors for lunch, a
drink after work or dinner. The Gastown Brewing Company, located
onsite, uses steam to fire its kettles for a great-tasting brew.
Executive Chef Andreas Scharfetter recommends the wild B.C. salmon
dishes. 375 Water St. 604-689-2739, steamworks.com
Sunset Grill
[$] An extensive brunch menu, served until 4 p.m. every day of the
week, includes Huevos Rancheros, Spanish Omelets and a stellar list
of Eggs Benedict. If you’re feeling Tolkien, try the Hobbit Benny:
perfect sunny poached eggs on back bacon and sautéed mushrooms
draped in smooth Hollandaise sauce made in-house. As the true mark
of a good breakfast joint, the Sunset Grill boasts a dozen sides
available to plump up your breakfast. If you can’t commit to a full
Kits Combo of eggs, pancakes and meat, try an order of the
Buttermilk Pancakes, fluffy and golden perfection. Casual and
laid-back, with quick, simple service true to its pub-style nature,
inside can feel a bit dark with the half-dozen TVs and bar décor,
but brunch on the patio on a sunny afternoon is damn hard to
beat. 2204 York Ave. 604-732-3733, sunsetgrillvancouverbc.com
Suvai [$$]
Little wider than a building corridor, this charming 30-seat-only
gem buzzes daily for dinner, lunch and weekend brunch. We like the
simple décor, from taupe walls napped with local art, sleek dark
wood, and comfy upholstery to the plain napery and cutlery. And the
place is as clean as polished silver. The tight menu offers four
mains, including the much-lauded ginger-star anise beef short ribs,
and a daily fish special. A composed salad of warm baby yellow
beets and creamy chèvre abed crunchy tatsoi, radicchio and curly
endive, is misted with orange vinaigrette. Rosy, pan-seared
Dungeness crab and shrimp cakes sub for a mini-main. Ruby trout –
flesh moist, skin crackly – over Thai black rice in gentle
ginger-coconut broth teases all the taste buds. A linguine tangled
with arugula, shallot confit, pine nuts and feta is a competent nod
to the vegetarian. 2279 W. 41st Ave. 604-261-4900.
Sylvia’s [$$] A
Vancouver landmark of 96 years, the feel is a bit of tradition and
bit of modern comfort. Delicate, creamy dill Hollandaise
complements the smoked salmon in the West Coast Eggs Benedict.
French Toast, served with a stewed Grand Marnier blueberry sauce so
thick it’s practically jam, is thick, fluffy and light like French
toast ought to be and is served with maple syrup, piping hot, in a
porcelain mini-carafe. The details, such as the dainty little
coffee cups on matching saucers or the fresh select fruits tucked
onto every dish, make Sunday brunch at Sylvia’s a far cry from a
diner breakfast. 1154 Gilford St. 604-681-9321, sylviahotel.com
Templeton [$]
This classic ’50s retro diner has an authentic soda fountain, bar,
stools, and booths with jukeboxes. The breakfast menu offers, for
the most part, fresh, natural ingredients in such dishes as the
Truckers Breakfast: Three free-run eggs any style with a side of
rosemary potatoes and choice of, say, organic turkey sausage and
multigrain toast. Service is snappy. 1087 Granville St.
604-685-4612, thetempleton.com
Theresa’s [$]
Order at a counter whose corrugated-tin façade is about the only
nod to stylishness in the place, which is seriously mellow. Menu
items, nearly all pegged at $5, are yummy and come in reasonably
generous portions. 1260 Commercial Dr. 604-676-1868, theresaseatery.com
Uncle Fatih’s
Pizza [$] A narrow red-checked space by the Broadway Skytrain
Station, serving budget pizza at $1.50 a slice that would not
disgrace finer establishments. 1685 E. Broadway. 604-707-0744, unclefatihspizza.com
WaaZuBee Café
[$] With over-melted candle sconces and Mexican prayer candles
adorning each table, the atmosphere is moody, funky and a bit Goth
all rolled into one, perfect for chatter after work over appies and
wine. The tasty lunch menu is packed with luxe sandwiches piled
with top-notch ingredients and plenty of representation of earth,
air and water proteins, with veggie and Portobello mushroom burgers
thrown in for good measure. The local favourite, the signature
Chicken WaaZuBwich is an open-faced garlic-mayo slathered delight
of grilled chicken and melted Brie on a toasted baguette. Service
is friendly, if a bit slow. 1622 Commercial Dr. 604-253-5299, waazubee.com
West [$$$$]
Superb dishes showcasing modern interpretations of classic
combinations by Executive Chef Warren Geraghty. Pastry Chef Rhonda
Viani conjures equally compelling desserts. Martinis and cocktails
are pressed-to-order and the highly awarded wine collection is
housed in a magnificent, temperature-controlled wall of wine. 2881
Granville St. 604-738-8938, westrestaurant.com
PRICE
GUIDE Below $30 = [$]. $30–$50 = [$$]. $50–$70 = [$$$]. Above $70 =
[$$$$].
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